belgrade fashion week: tatjana stanković
(images via bfw)
if i really took the time to comb back through the archives, i’d probably be proved wrong, but i tend to think of belgrade fashion week as a more laid-back affair, one in which cocktail and evening dressing isn’t foremost in everyone’s minds (as portions of new york and milan, for example, might feel), but designer tatjana stanković and her “success couture” (i’m sorry, but we’re really not calling it that. we’ll simply refer to the atelier under her own name, because if you want to design such finefinery, you just can’t with that name) got into fully decadent mode for the a/w 2012 season. and although i tend to be leery about yet more ball attire being trotted out in the already-stuffed arena, i must admit, homegirl did a pretty nice job with her offerings.
anyway, her fall collection was entitled ‘touch the stars,’ and the serbian site ata stars explained that it was (trans.) “inspired by the film stars of the world,” and that these garments, apparently, “will lead us into a world ruled by luxury and glamour.” that might be plying the noise a little thick (just like that label name), but the clothes shouldn’t be faulted for the designer’s seeming inability to express with words what she can so lyrically with her clothes. there was something rather goddess-y in these long, shimmering dresses, and for me the cuts looked more old-world film siren, like a mashup between the glam glimmer of the late deco period and the long, languid gowns of the 1930’s.
the palette was rather simple, and i appreciated that, with more focus put on the subtle shifts in cut and detail than in assuring customers they’d be able to get their hands on any possible gradation of the rainbow (i’m looking at you, elie saab). gold was definitely the star, while a bit of shining sterling and dazzling black (and in one case, black combined with gold, above, for a oddly intriguing effect) played backup notes. the range materials, reported wannabe magazine, included tulle, ribbons, chiffon, and sequins, and they pointed out that each creation was handmade by the designer. none of my sources were particularly clear on whether this was true couture or not (though modnivrisak did take the time to stress to us the love going into it), but i’m assuming they’re one-offs that are probably closer to the demi-method of 2-3 fittings in lieu of the standard 6-8 or so.
though there was shorter cocktail number interjected into the presentation and some of the skirts were semi-transparent, showing the above-the-knee lining within, by and large, the collection was defined by the pencil shape, sweeping in a straight column to the floor (although some did have a slit or a little kick at the hem to mix things up). thus, the designer mostly drew the eye to the neckline and shoulders, where she switched things up continually with varying strap arrangements, one-shouldered options, sleeveless numbers, and the like. those curving, glittery lines that circled and wrapped about the body helped draw the figure out in the right places, and add curves in others, sometimes feeling a touch on the futuristic side. to be sure, i might have liked a little more variation with her cuts, but it was a short show, and i was never bored checking out her sometimes subtle detail changes (see additional images at facebook & sml).
(see the show video here, with the tatjana stanković portion beginning at around the 8:30 mark)
