March 2012
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milan fashion week: dolce & gabbana
(images via ny mag)
i’m sure there are plenty who will find me a right smug prig for what i’m about to do, so fair warning before proceeding: there’s some criticism of the delicate and gentle dolce & gabbana ahead. there seem to be a good number of fans of labels who couldn’t possibly hear any criticism—warranted or no—about their most precious brands,...
February 2012
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london fashion week: meadham kirchhoff
(images via wwd)
when it comes time to sum up the whole of the season, i’ll already know one of the labels i’m most grateful to: meadham kirchhoff. although i suppose i ought have expected it, given their penchant for stepping things up as time has moved on, rather than slowly and commercially dialing them back (see f/w 2010, s/s 2011, f/w 2011, s/s 2012), the f/w 2012 season in...
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milan fashion week: missoni
(images via ny mag)
missoni is one of those houses that seems to score the most devoted fans, the kind who rave and buy, with rapture, rapture, all the time. and the rest of us…well, i don’t want to say that i dislike what designer angela missoni has done over the last few years (see f/w 2010, f/w 2011, s/s 2012), and in some cases i’ve even loved it beyond all measure. but...
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paris fashion week: anthony vaccarello
(images via ny mag)
certainly i’d like to celebrate the commencement of paris fashion week and all the sartorial delights it brings (it’s also a precursor to the delightful ukranian and japan fashion weeks), and i appreciate that the event planners or whomever have opted to allow things to begin with some smaller houses, letting them soak up a little attention before the big guns of...
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berlin fashion week: dawid tomaszewski
(images via mbfwb)
and so…with this it would seem dawid tomaszewski’s transformation into the late alexander mcqueen continues. in the past (see s/s 2011, a/w 2011, s/s 2012), i didn’t like to acknowledge it—largely because the former appeared to be steering clear of some of the latter’ signatures, but okay, this time—his a/w 2012 collection presented at...
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milan fashion week: blumarine
(images via style)
sometimes i wonder if blumarine is misunderstood. fashion critics seem to like to dump all of the shows in the roughly month-long exercise that covers everything from quite accessible labels (like j. crew in new york), to the slightly higher-end (topshop unique in london) to contemporary and bridge (new york’s alexander wang and dkny), more affordable designer (louis...
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london fashion week: giles
(images via wwd)
so i have to say that after all this, i don’t really know how fashion works. i always thought that giles deacon (see f/w 2010, s/s 2012) was london’s—if not to say the rest of the major fashion month’s—great ‘quirky/artsy’ love, with such a push to get into his shows that…they look very much like the packed hall we see in all of...
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milan fashion week: jil sander
(images via ny mag)
so yes, yes, you know by now that the a/w 2012 collection was designer raf simons’ last for jil sander. and, of course, you probably also know that there are plenty of people going to cry for him and bemoan at length the house’s loss. but i’m not one of those people. to be sure, in the past (see a/w 2010, s/s 2011, s/s 2012) i have liked some of the...
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milan fashion week: bottega veneta
(images via ny mag)
when i first became interested in fashion a number of years ago, i was inevitably drawn in by those designers with the kind of flashbangpop! that makes one immediately take notice if for no other reason than because the clothes (and often, the styling) were so fiercely determined to be singular that they could border on lurid, perverse, silly, or gimmicky (as well as just...
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berlin fashion week: sebastian ellrich
(images via mbfwb)
for one of the best berlin fashion weeks in recent memory, i’ve found the coverage in blogs and on news sites to be rather spotty, with some designers (by my watch) not getting nearly as much love as i felt they deserved. an example of such was one of the standouts from the s/s 2012 season—the former costume designer sebastian ellrich. one of the things i found...
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london fashion week: mark fast & the incredible...
(images via ny mag)
oh, sister. so i, like, don’t even know what to say about this one. i was actually quite tempted not to even cover mark fast’s a/w 2012 range presented at london fashion week, but considering that opt has so closely followed his collections (see a/w 2010, s/s 2011, a/w 2011, s/s 2012) in seasons past, it somehow seemed wrong to completely forgo it this time...
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copenhagen fashion week: anne sofie madsen
(images via cfw)
last season, i was particularly impressed by newcomer to copenhagen fashion week, anne sofie madsen’s s/s 2012 japanese anime-inspired collection, and although i know you were probably clamoring nervously in anticipation, wondering what she’d turn out for the a/w 2012 season, and whether it would be in-keeping with her tribal-esque aesthetic, fear not! this time...
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milan fashion week: salvatore ferragamo
(images via wwd)
as i’m trying to reign in the coverage on opt for the major fashion shows, largely because last season it took me so long after the fact to get through them (which frankly led to a delay that the site only now really coming out of), i’ve been trying to apply strict rules to whether or not a particular brand is allowed in (usually depending on how closing we’ve...
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nyfw: marc jacobs
(images via ny mag)
and now the time has come for us to leave new york fashion week. i don’t think we did too badly this time around, do you? anyway, i tried very hard not to drag things out to the length i usually do. and as i always like to end on a high note, i though i’d make a gesture and close with that designer whom i often call overrated, but who can surprise me with a...
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copenhagen fashion week: sand
(images via cfw)
as you’re probably by now well aware, i tend to get rather gruff when fashion houses select a name that’s difficult to come by in web searches, and as you can imagine, this is the case i wasn’t able to score a video for the danish label sand’s a/w 2012 presentation. which is actually too bad, because although opt has never covered their work...
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berlin fashion week: schumacher
(images via mbfwb)
yes, we’re still in berlin, albeit briefly. and we’re coming to that time i especially love—the one in which we get to discuss the favourites i’ve been saving until last, perhaps unwisely hoarding away until the interest has turned to another event (but i like to get to think about them more). anyway, one of these cases is the dorothee...
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milan fashion week: versace
(images via wwd)
i don’t really want to start this review as a history lesson about the house of versace, as most of the critics opted to do, but i think i can give a quick nod to a couple of facts we all know. in 1997, gianni versace was killed and his sister, donatella, took over the reins of the house, for both better and worse, although since her stay at a rehab facility in 2004, for...
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nyfw: y-3
(images via ny mag)
maybe this will be annoying, but at the same time it shouldn’t be any surprise: you’re not going to hear anything new out of me when covering y-3. i’ve stated in the past my fervent adoration for designer yohji yamamoto, and pretty much everything the label has thrown at us these past several seasons (see a/w 2010, s/s 2011, a/w 2011, s/s 2012), i’ve...
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milan fashion week: prada
(images via ny mag)
although most of the major critics are forever in a rush to declare practically anything that exits the doors of the house of prada a success before the consumer has even really had time to digest, much less react, to it, i’ve always been one of those rather more difficult types that prefers to see things on a per-case basis, especially when the label in question likes...
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copenhagen fashion week: by malene birger
(images via cfw)
probably i’ve already said this in the past, but when it comes to perusing yet another season of by malene birger’s i’m quite excited…it’s the actual review-writing part that ends up getting to me. i’ve been following ms. birger’s work both on my own and for opt for a number of seasons now (see s/s 2011, f/w 2011, s/s 2012), and while...
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nyfw: rodarte
(images via ny mag)
you probably know by now (see f/w 2010, s/s 2011, f/w 2011, resort 2012, s/s 2012) that i’m a little skeptical on the subject of rodarte, finding designers kate and laura mulleavy to be a little too proud for their own good. like, i’m not going to try to argue that they’re without talent, or anything nonsensical like that, but on the other hand, i often...
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