stockholm fashion week: the local firm
(images via rodeo)
back during my reviews of the s/s 2011 season, i announced that we’d put the local firm on notice, checking back during the a/w 2011 collection to see whether it was a label worth much and am happy to report that not only was it much tighter, but was one of the more interesting shows of the stockholm fashion week (albeit, the ‘week’ was only, like, 3 days, but still, it’s a compliment! take the compliment).
anyway, for the fall season, in a brief video interview, one of the label’s two designers (the dude with the feathered earring, who sort of strikes me as what hank moody from ‘californication’ would look like if, during his younger years, he was a hip gay artiste living on telegraph hill) describes the collection as a “gang getting off a submarine…mixing up their on-duty clothing with their off-duty”.
workin’ it on a slicked-down runway, models sported the greasy hair of months spent at sea (okay, it was probably supposed to be something sexier than that), their ensembles that edgy juxtaposition between ugly and chic (see the hat below, as a final example to my point), in a wide range of draped materials (as one blog, with good detail shots points out, the show was “about contrasts”).
it made for a good idea, and a nice play on the uniforms or military looks labels tend to (over)do. instead of something tired or overdesigned, what we got felt fresh and realistic, that mix kids today so love of something new with something a little arcane (yet cooler because of it) purchased at a surplus shop. i also appreciated the designers’ decision to lessen the amount of denim on the runway, and, in one season, have gone from lackluster to eagerly anticipating their next body of work. doesn’t get much better than that. (maybe if they had left the second from above hat out.)
(watch the short interview/catwalk video here)
updated: with new images