amsterdam fashion week: winde rienstra
(images via peter stigter)
we’re finally closing out amsterdam fashion week with the s/s 2012 collection which most moved me: that of winde rienstra. as the site fashion nl explains, she is a dutch designer of slow fashion and, having participated in several green fashion initiatives as well as the competition last season, homegirl’s present work is a continuation on that theme.
working with such materials as wood, string, knit fabrics, and wires, ms. rienstra draws inspiration from architecture, nature, and spacial design. the resultant pieces are often quite conceptual, the sculptural elements mixing with the wearable and often, as nrc points out, gleaning comparisons with the better-known dutch dramatic art-fashion designer, iris van herpen.
colours remained soft, with virtually all pieces presented in shades of white, cream, and nude, while hair and makeup helped to achieve a certain futuristic-cum-approachable effect. indeed, casting nieuws suggests that the white makeup gave girls an alien aesthetic, while the winding braids played up on something a little more bohemian and casual to pair with the complex science fiction-y fashions.
interestingly, as off-putting as some of the designs might at first seem (peter stigter comments that they “were not all very wearable”), it was ms. rienstra herself, taking her bow at the end of the show, which introduced a more realistic side to the clothes. some have complained that female designers are a sort of ‘last model on the catwalk’ effect, but this need not always be a negative; indeed, by pairing her eye-catching beige belt (third from top) with a simple black shirtdress, the designer showed how her pieces might be taken from catwalk to chic reality.
in the end, that made for the kind of presentation which makes me so happy: designs which challenge what we understand of the industry and might not be worn in their entirety out into the world (lest you be exceedingly brave), but might also be easily adapted for such (see good additional shots at dam style). besides, drawing on nature as inspiration is a refreshing move from the too-oft quoted short list of chic artists and musicians we always hear name-dropped at these things. let’s hope two things: that we see much more of ms. rienstra in the future and that she resists the magnetic fingers (and fashion soul-sucking elements) of lady g.
(see a short show video here)