copenhagen fashion week: wackerhaus
(images via cfw)
i’ve been periodically bitching about the lack of grown-up clothes on the runway for some time now (probably most recently at the benedikte utzon show in copenhagen), so imagine how pleased grumpy me was to behold the wackerhaus s/s 2012 range, complete with all kinds of elegant and youthful-cum-classic offerings that were all at once wearable, not too stifling, and office-and-beyond appropriate! oh, goodness!
as the designer trine wackerhaus explains on her site, “my work is a delicate balance of playful extravaganza, soft femininity and strict simplicity. I strive towards making clothes that are both luxurious and comfortable,” the site adding that “When asked to describe her signature style, Wackerhaus explains that her designs are not meant to be seasonal, but classic statements to be used across seasons. Her use of a dark and subtle color palette fits perfectly with the idea of a timeless, modest and flawless style, and is at the same time a lovely canvas for colorful excesses.”
spring marked the juxtaposition of lighter shades such as flesh tones, soft metallic silver, aqua, faded purple, pale yellow, and light blue against her signature dark colours like steely gray, black, and indigo. as fashion united points out, several abstract prints were also in usage, some looking almost tribal (as second from below), while others (as above) spoke more of modernist art. thick wooden bangles and silver visors (?) many models sported also helped give a slightly nomadic feeling, as did the drape and hoods on several pieces.
what perhaps most attracted me to this range, though, was in its designer’s seeming exceptional understanding of what girls in that more-difficult age range of late twenties-thirties are looking for. no longer young enough to get away with sorority pool party garb, they’re at once wishing for something a bit more sophisticated, yet still playful enough to remind people they’re not dead yet (if all the fashionies nevertheless wish they were). thus, the jumpsuits, smart little jackets, rolled trousers, and menswear shirts gave off a nonchalance, whilst still being refined enough to carry off at work. although the concept seems simple, i find it a wonder that more designers don’t bring these ideas off nearly so well as ms. wackerhaus cleverly did today.
(watch a short collection video here)