stockholm fashion week: the local firm
(images via rodeo)
opt has been following swedish denim label the local firm for a couple of seasons now (see s/s 2011 & f/w 2011), and while i can honestly say it has never really jived with my personal aesthetic in the way some of the scandinavian labels do, some of the minimalist pieces nonetheless speak directly to my heart. however, because it unfortunately seems to be the way of the day for no one to publish a review with any usable show information, we’re once again left to (mostly) founder with the s/s 2012 collection.
soundvenue comments (in a ‘review’ which tells us nothing else at all pertinent, save for the key colours of the range; that’s right, i’m calling out these non-informative write-ups now) that the brand’s show opened this season of stockholm fashion week, while damernas, in a flash of benevolence, reminds us that the local firm generally draws on ideas from the bauhaus, before remarking on the early nineties-flavour of the show (in particular citing it through the skirts and dresses layered over trousers that female models sported).
as is frequently the case, the colour palette seemed drawn from a drab winter landscape: varying shades of gray, rust, beige, black, sun bleached-looking denim hues, taupe, and a flash of almost-bright blue made up the array that felt, materials aside, more suited for fall. denim, several types of knitwear, nylon, and a slew of almost-transparent-or-fully-so fabrics, meanwhile, made up the material array (see a few good additional detail shots at columbine).
in analysis, i’d concur that i did get a feeling of the opening days of the nineties, especially in the cropped tops girls sported, which occasionally gave way to those oversized, almost dress-like t-shirts (remember when they were clipped and paired with leggings?). high-waisted denim, jumpsuits, sporty tanks, jumper dresses, and a lot of layering pieces were some of the key options on a runway which seemed to vacillate between a teenager babysitter circa 1989- and an avant-y artiste-cum-dancer who likes to flaunt how damn skinny she can look even with more clothes’ worth of layers than you own in your closet circa now-aesthetic.
colourblocking was a strong trend, as was heavy logo placement (i know, i know), transparency, volume, and sportswear (a lot of the pants looking particularly yoga-ready). additionally, i noticed what seemed to be a curious method of encouraging the purchase of numerous pieces: models would emerge in one set of items, coming out with a few more piled on each time, to show just how good they might look altogether. i’m not sure if this was supposed to support environmentalism, or just more selling, but i wasn’t able to find any commentary on the subject (see, however, model frida gustavsson at top & bottom, in two examples of her various stages of the same).
in the end, while i will admit that i did like some of the looks the local firm put upon us for spring, a lot of it felt like expensive dancewear that once could easily pick up on amazon for quite a bit less than whatever this label might charge. additionally, while the menswear was a bit more engaging and wearable (with options which might actually be worn to work), womenswear felt more about showing off lithe bodies than anything else: indeed, at times i rather wondered that they were a part of the same collection. to be sure, there are girls aplenty that want to sport this stuff, but i’m not always sure i want to look at them. yes, everyone needs clothes for leisure, but we also have times we need to go out with more than the charms of our skinny thighs to recommend us, the local firm. at least let’s hope.
(watch the full catwalk video here)
updated: with new images