oslo fashion week: fam irvoll
(images via norwegian fashion)
yaaay! so it’s the moment i suspect you’ve all been waiting for, when we close our brief (but drawn-out) coverage of oslo fashion week with the one designer i suspect the whole event really exists for, fam irvoll! and, of course, her madcap runway of wonders, this time for the s/s 2013 season. opt has been following the designer some handful of seasons by now (see s/s 2011, a/w 2011, s/s 2012, a/w 2012), and while i’m impressed with the way she has moved forward from season-to-season with her work, i must say, there’s something in her past couple of spring collections i’ve especially liked; the softness of her pretty, layered dresses that can be toned up or down with the right accessories, perhaps.
and so. this time around, forever opting for some whimsy in her themes, the norwegian site kjendis reported that (trans.) “Irvoll had in fact dedicated to the garments to age with style intact, and on each garment was an old lady.” in other words, at the ripe old age of 32, ms. irvoll appears to be looking death squarely in the face (well, isn’t that how the fashion world sees it?) and, thus, explained to the site that “I decided to do a ‘tribute’ to growing old, and to age with style and wrinkles. Being old does not need to suck, and everyone does not need Botox.”
i suppose we should see the humour in that, considering that it’s ms. irvoll (and especially considering her regular subject matter and her particularly kiddie fall show), but there’s something i find a bit depressing in all of it, that women in their early thirties feel the need to address the fact that they don’t feel the need for botox…or whatever. as we’re living perpetually longer than ever these days, there is as yet more of a focus on youth, and i think we can all agree that the big runway models are aging backwards these days, leading even the strongest of women (like ms. irvoll quite appears to be) to feel the need to address it. and even if they don’t get bothered by aging, the fact that it’s so in the air for women especially (even at age 32)…yes, depresses me.
but i’m sorry, that’s perhaps a discussion for another time, and anyway, we should be getting back to the clothes, which were, of course, classic fam irvoll. so, as the site continued, they related that the models were to represent “glamorous grannies,” and that one of the models acknowledged that (again, trans.) “(i)n each case, the tops had a grandmother on every boob.” we often saw their faces sketched across t-shirts, or big bouquets of flowers (how that related, i’m not really sure, but i did like them), or, in my personal favourite turn, the grandmas in full, plastered as wallpaper prints across dresses, clad in variously-hued floral muumuus.
anyway, i was a little disappointed to learn that ms. irvoll didn’t get much press this season (as compared to her norms), but the blog teacups and couture commented that “she decided to give the memaws of the world a shout out by putting their sour faces on t-shirts and dresses,” as the blog fashion in oslo (which coincidentally, had some nice show images) reflected that “Fam´s signature is the playful color combinations, special cartoon prints and spicy appliqués. In this colllection, she focused on animals and old people. Other characteristics were dip-tye, lace and distinctive collars. It´s fun and unique!” i’d agree, and although there’s always a youthful touch to her work, somehow things seemed a little more grown-up this season, though i mean that in a good way.
probably it’s that her pieces looked a little more ‘done’; that she’s improving in her skill set, and is more confident to play with silhouettes, rather than to just keep them basic and splash wild prints across them. honestly, i have wondered what happened to the more pop art direction that we saw from ms. irvoll when we first encountered her work, but i suppose ultimately, she’s got a nice formula marrying the commercial with the quirky, opting for pretty, springlike colours, and balancing out some of her zanier pieces with quieter staples—this time in those bright ombré pink-and-green numbers that were as cheerful as they were versatile. she hasn’t given up on her lighthearted, eccentric outlook, but she’s also a clever enough businesswoman at this point to realize not everyone will want a stuffed animal head descending from a breast. although why not, i’m sure i’ll never understand (check out some additional images at vogue, berland foto, and glamour).
(enjoy the collection video here)
oslo fashion week: tonje jakobsen
(images via norwegian fashion)
although unfortunately oslo fashion week (at least as long as opt has been covering it) tends to be a smaller and quieter event than its scandinavian sisters, copenhagen and stockholm, in one way at least, i believe it really stands out: the minimalist designers tend to have an almost oceanic quality, with rippling lines that remind me of jellyfish and soft waves (and maybe i’m thinking this largely due to armando santos’ s/s 2012 range which was inspired by just that, although on the other hand, i’d say the s/s 2013 tsh show had this element as well).
but i digress, and what i’m actually meaning to speak of just now was the s/s 2013 range of a newcomer to ofw’s official schedule, tonje jakobsen (sometimes spelled ‘tonje jacobsen’), which was shaded exclusively in bluey tones, making it as soft-spoken as it was beautiful. “The collection consists of silk and cotton fabrics in various shades of greay and blue with loose silhouettes. The head pieces are perfect if you will spend much time outdoors in tropical climate and will give you a very sporty look. Tonja has wrinkled the fabrics to add more texture as she is not to heavy on the patterns,” said the site norwegian fashion.
meanwhile, explaining that ms. jakobsen is the daughter of a tailor and has worked for the likes of vivienne westwood, the ofw site proclaimed her “the newcomer of the season…Her vision is that you don’t need that many main pieces, before you can make a complete wardrobe. And with two different shades of grey and ice-blue you can mix and match with layering, ready for any occasion.” explaining that the range consisted of a scant ten items in total, they added that “rainy mornings and a sea-view,” served as the designer’s inspiration for spring.
"Though she is only using a few different colours, her designing is not boring. When she didn’t find the right colours on the materials, she coloured some herself, so she could find a perfect palette for her collection. And even if the garments come in few colours, the cut is new and edgy with different textures mixed together like shiny against matt and wrinkled surfaces on the pieces," they continued, and frankly, i’m really pleased to see the positive reception at such understated elegance.
elsewhere, the site true fashionista now proclaimed that “(s)hades of grey and ice blue are color palettes that add to the mood of grace mixed with casual chic. The silhouettes are non definite and the texture are a playful billowing of fabric that is carefully created for a gorgeous shift dress or long trousers. The designer took her inspiration from ‘rainy mornings and a sea-view’ for her first collection that is indeed a quiet fashionably breath of fresh air of creative vision and style.” though we don’t often—or always—see designers repeating their appearances at ofw (save fam irvoll, of course), this is one i’d certainly like to keep tabs on in the seasons to come (see additional images at berland foto).
oslo fashion week: mardou & dean
(images via norwegian fashion)
although i probably said it earlier, this season has proven rather lucky in scandinavia, and while we’ve been seeing some excellent collections out of copenhagen and stockholm, i’m also quite pleased with this turn through oslo. usually the event is rather small and doesn’t turn up many names, but the showing felt better for the upcoming spring, and we’ve been treated to the serendipitous rendering of both old favourites and some new names (though let’s all keep hoping that they’ll turn out sometime in the future), like the denim label mardou & dean.
now (full disclosure time), i tend not to be either particularly passionate about, nor an expert in anything to do with denim (so i won’t try to push something i’m not), but on the other hand, opt has regularly followed a couple of jeans houses in brazil, ellus, cavalera, and herchcovitch, with some success, so i’ll just try to do the same and best i can here with the norwegian brand’s s/s 2013 range. besides, for those of us not disposed towards liking the stuff, the good news was that mardou & dean included plenty of other items, like the edgy cut-out little red dress (below).
there didn’t seem to be any specific sort of inspiration—something vaguely contemporary and club-y seems to be what most of this sort of house is all about these days— so instead, i think we have to go with a general sort of feeling, which to me was rather provocative. and as if to match this, cosmopolitan's review got pretty passionate, beginning that (trans.) “(i)n a former garage, rough music and large floodlights shed luster on models wearing the freaking awesome garments.”
“This rocked, military and sexy at the same time - and we cannot imagine a better combination,” they continued trilling. “ In this collection, there was a bit of everything - soft colours, black / white, leather, lace, sequins and denim - a good variety of other words. The clothes from the catwalk was user friendly, and we like the jeans…Here was the inspiration to get up!” i would have liked a little more background, but i suppose i can buy some military elements (as well as rock music and its standard ‘boy-meets-girl’, i might say) contained within.
elsewhere, the site norwegian fashion chimed in that “(o)n the runway we got served a variety of slim fit jeans, denim shorts and patched denim vests. While Mardou & Dean are known for their denim jeans, we also got to see some really edgy leather jackets, leather pants, blazers, skirts and shoes. Even though they showed a main stream collection that is very usable, it lacked an edge that would make is stand out from other main steam collections.” and i fully agreed here. this was more about fun and contemporary trends than anything really challenging, much as the aforementioned houses play at the complex brazilian fashion events.
but the other sites seemed to really enjoy what was on display, and i suppose we can appreciate that for what it all was. “(i)n addition to the gorgeous jeans in all sorts of different varieties, the designer duo…[showed a] collection that oozed urban edge and ‘cool,’” enthused the site kk, as their fellow norwegian website kjendis rang in much the same, touting it as, variously ‘sexy’ and (trans.) “(h)ard and soft, and so…cool.” and i did really like the dresses, although the trousers are usually best judged, you know..when they’re on your bum. and i liked the borrowed-from-the-boys braces on tiny skirts and short shorts, leaving enough positive sentiment to find the show fun, but not necessarily enough that i completely understood why it was imperative to stage a runway exhibition for the collection, either (see additional images at catwalk mag, berland foto, & kjendis).
(check out a short collection video here)